Cosmpolitian Hotel

Jeppestown & Belgravia Pt.5 (Osborn Pharmacy, Thrupps, Cosmopolitan Hotel, Jeppestown Synagogue and Jooste & Bryant’s building)

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Osborn Pharmacy

The plans for this building date back to 24 August 1898 and it was evidently built before the Anglo-Boer War by J.R. Koller. A good description is ‘…more leisurely pace with its Victorian air, which is suburban rather than city-centered’.

Although mostly Victorian with a highly decorated roofline, there are also elements of Classicist ornamentation reminiscent of the Italian Renaissance.

As the name implies, the building was a chemist for well over 70 years. Its first owner was a Mr. Sanderson

About the spelling…some books have the ‘e’ and some don’t. The current sign on the building if you zoom in on the Picture below has it with the ‘e’. Some use the more common spelling ‘Osbourne’

Osborn Pharmacy 2011

Osborn Pharmacy 2011 (Source: Marc Latilla)

The following two views looking west down Marshall Street were taken a few years apart. All these buildings were built between 1894 and the early 1900s, and those that survive today make up the oldest cluster of early retail stores and buildings in Johannesburg. The first and earlier of the two shows an open stand on the left. The balconied building across the road looks like a typical period hotel or boarding establishment with shops on street level.  On the right is the Osborne building with the Imperial Photographic Studio signage. 

View down Marshall Street in early 1900s with the pharmacy on your left

View down Marshall Street late 1890s with the pharmacy on the right (Source: A Johannesburg album)

MArshall str Jeppestown c1910

View down Marshall Street looking west early 1900s (Source: A Johannesburg Album)

View down Marshall Street 2011

View down Marshall Street in 2011 with the pharmacy on the right (Source: Google Earth)

The second later postcard (early 1990s) has new shops where the open stand was. Signage reads ‘Richardson Cater’ and ‘Holbrook & Pottage’. The hotel/boarding house is still there and it appears to have signage under the balcony that reads ‘Lamb & Harper’.

On the right is the Osborn building again. Across Maddison Street is what looks like the main Lamb & Harper Outfitters double-storey building. This is followed by the single-storey and gabled Bank Building, ending with a shop at the corner of Marshall and Macintyre that has been home to various shoe retailers over the years including Cuthberts and Spitz. Note the Chicken’s News Agency store between Cuthberts and the Bank Building. This news agency was founded in 1893 and was taken over by CNA in 1928 along with two other respected book stores.

The row of buildings from the old Lamb & Harper down to the corner store is now part of Jozi Malls. The buildings were bought by Mohamed Dajee in 1995 who created the mall. The 2nd floor of the old Harper & Lamb building has been a Mosque since 2005.

Marshall str Jeppestown

View up Marshall Street looking east from Macintyre showing Cuthberts and Chicken’s News Agency (Source: A Johannesburg Album)

Marshall str jeppestown

Same view up Marshall Street today (Source: Google Earth)

bank building Jozi Mall

Bank Buildings and Jozi Malls 2014 (Source: Marc Latilla)

This view down Maddison Street looking south is taken from the corner where the vacant stand meets Marshall Street in the earlier c1890s photo.

Thrupps Maddison street

View down Maddison Street looking south with Thrupps store (Source: A Johannesburg Album)

Same view today showing the old Thrupps building which is now a funeral business (Source: Google Earth)

The corner building gives no clue as to its function without the Lamb & Harper signage from the previous postcard. Next door is the first suburban branch of C. H. Thrupp & Co. that opened in the late 1890s. The book ‘Johannesburg 70 Golden Years’ states the branch opened in 1903 although the land was purchased in 1895. I’ve since uncovered the plans and building application documents from 1895 which state the building was designed by Carter & McIntosh. It was probably completed in 1896 and is another addition to the list of  Johannesburg’s oldest buildings.

Thrupps Jeppe plans

Thrupps store plans from 1895 (Source: Museum Africa)

Thrupps building application

Thrupps building application dated 12 Sep 1895 (Source: Museum Africa)

Another clue that the building was in use before 1903 is the following photo showing English troops entering Johannesburg on 31 May 1900. The shop, like many in Johannesburg during the war, is boarded up to prevent damage and theft. Based on this, there is a good chance it was trading before the outbreak of the war in 1899.

Thrupps Jeppe and troops

Maddison Street looking south showing Thrupps and English troops entering Johannesburg dated 31 May 1900 (Source: Museum Africa)

The first Johannesburg Thrupps branch was opened on the corner of Eloff and President Streets in 1894 and then at 71 Pritchard Street in 1902. The Rosebank branch (re-built from the purchase of J. H. Wherrie’s grocery business) was opened in 1951 which then moved to Illovo in the 1990s where it is still going strong.

Thrupps advert c1950s (Source: Johannesburg 70 Golden Years)

Traveling south along Maddison Street would take one directly to the Meyer & Charlton mine. After crossing Hanau Street at the slight kink in the road, one would find oneself in North Doornfontein which is not technically north of Doornfontein, but is about as south of Doornfontein one could get with Jeppestown in-between. This oddity has prevailed in modern maps much like Parktown North (separated from Parktown proper by a few suburbs), and Kensington B (nowhere near Kensington, but in Randburg). Legend has it that they were named after established suburbs to help with property sales. Many new families rented or purchased their homes before relocating to Johannesburg and would often be misled by the suburb name.

Just after the kink half-way down the block once stood the Ohlsson’s Brewery owned Charlton Hotel which was built in 1903 and designed by E. C. Choinier with additions in 1906 by W. Paynter. It was a typical hotel, situated near the mines or railways, that catered for the growing workforce. Such was the demand for accommodation, that a second floor and a beer hall was added in the first three years.

Charlton Hotel plans

Charlton Hotel plans c1906 (Source: Museum Africa)

Cosmopolitan Hotel

Anyone who has driven around this part of town has no doubt come across the landmark that is the Cosmopolitan Hotel.

Cosmpolitian Hotel

Cosmopolitan Hotel 2018 (Source: Yeshiel Panchia)

Designed by brothers Arthur and Walter Reid in 1899, the hotel was probably only built in 1902 due to the onset of the Anglo-Boer war. The design is late Victorian although it was built in the early Edwardian era. In its day it would have towered above the low line surrounding shops. Not far away, the Rand Tram ran diagonally across the township.

The following was written about the hotel by Daphne Saul in 1983 (taken from the Heritage Portal):

“The hotel was opened in 1899. It was first owned by a Mr Schlom and was known as Schlom’s Hotel. Then it was taken over by a Mr Lipson and subsequently by a Mr Cohen. In 1914 it was bought by South African Breweries. Miners from the Wolhuter Mine in the vicinity were regular customers.

The hotel boasts an elaborate neo-baroque facade in the style known as ‘beaux-arts’. It is the only surviving building designed by the well-known firm of architects at the time, the brothers Arthur and Walter Reid. It has floral mouldings, pilasters, pediments above each upper window and, to top it all, a leaden dome with bullnose gutter.

The bar of the hotel has a most interesting feature. This is a row of supports of carved wooden lions in the classic heraldic style. No one seems to know who thought of this embellishment, who carved the lions or who paid for them. Buffalo and buck heads are mounted on the walls and recall the time when it was used by the Masonic Club known as the Old Buffaloes.

In former times the hotel was called the Jeppe Rand Club by its patrons. The building was erected in a period of financial optimism which probably accounts for its opulent appearance and this notwithstanding the fact that the Anglo-Boer war was imminent at the time”

It appears Mr Schlom also had a house designed around the same time by the same architects in Albrecht Street between Commissioner and Market Street at stand no.3. 

Cosmopolitan Hotel

View down Albrecht Street (Source: Yeshiel Panchia)

When this piece was originally written in 2013, the building is in a state of disrepair and the entrance doors and windows were bricked up. It has since been renovated. Check out 2Summers.net blog with some great then and now pictures here.

Jeppestown Synagogue

A relative latecomer to Jeppestown, the Synagogue was built in 1927. The central facade with a huge arch window flanked by pillars topped with small domes is based on a tradition that goes back as far as the Temple of King Solomon. The Synagogue was designed by Saul Margo

Jeppestown Synagogue situated across the road from the Jeppe monument

Jeppestown Synagogue situated across the road from the Jeppe oval and monument (Source: Marc Latilla)

Jeppestown Synagogue

Jeppestown Synagogue now known as Assembly of God Portuguese Community Church Templo Sede Ebeneezer J.H.B. (Source: Marc Latilla)

Prior to this, the first synagogue in Jeppe was in Marshall Street. It was known as the Lithuanian Shul and built in 1903 from a design by George (Snowball) Laidler. It was in use until 1926 when it moved to the new and bigger synagogue above. The original structure still exists and was cut in half by the expansion of the railway lines in 1937. The leftover building is now part of a marble factory.

Google view of the old Lithuanian Shul showing where the railway expansion cut into the building

View of the Lithuanian Shul showing where the railway expansion cut into the building (Source: Google Earth)

Jooste & Bryant’s Building

Designed by Waterson & Veale, this building was completed on 3 June 1906. It’s a typical example of Victorian excesses tempered by a simpler Edwardian style. The cast-iron balcony, roof signage, and corner tower are all Victorian whereas the stark lines of the facade and lack of decorative gables and dormer windows are all Edwardian traits.

Corner view (pic from www.allatsea.co.za)

Corner view (Source: http://www.allatsea.co.za)

Jooste & Bryant's Building roof signage - the last remaining example in JHB

Jooste & Bryant’s Building cast-iron roof signage – the last remaining example in JHB (Source: Marc Latilla)

The building originally housed one of the few Afrikaaner businesses in Johannesburg. Jooste & Bryant were importers and distributors of wine, brandy and other luxury goods. The business was established in 1889 with its first Pirates Bottle Store opened on the corner of Eloff and Commissioner Street (same block as His Majesty’s Theatre). By 1895 there were Pirate Bottle Stores in Market Street, West Street, Fordsburg, Clifton (Braamfontein) and Bree Street East. The Jeppe building housed a store at street level with administrative offices above after it opened in 1906.

In the early 1920s, Jooste & Bryant acquired the ‘House of Sedgwick’, a principal wine merchant in the Cape. By 1937 Sedgwick/J&S held 22% of the wholesale trade.   

Jeppe also had two bioscopes. The first was known as Jeppe Bioscope and was across from the station in Mcintire Street. The building still stands.

Old bioscope in Jeppestown

Silver roof of the old Bioscope in Jeppestown (Source: Google Earth)

The second, which was originally the Alexandra theatre, had its entrance in Marshall Street with the building running parallel to Maddison Street. Alterations to the theatre were done in 1911 by Bertram Avery. In 1922 it became a supermarket known as SPQR (Small Profits Quick Returns). Around 1929 to 1942 it was known as Maxims Tearoom Bioscope. 

Alexander bioscope Marshall str

Position of Alexandra Theatre / Maxim’s Bioscope on Marshall street (Source: Google Earth)

Alexandra theatre Marshall str

Alexandra Theatre alterations plans c1911 (Source: Museum Africa)

Alexandra theatre plans

Alterations to the entrance on Marshall Street c1911 (Source: Museum Africa)

Entrance to the once Alexandra Theatre / Maxim’s Bioscope Marshall Street c1970s (Source: The Star)

Tram Terminus Building

Not actually in Jeppestown at all, this building from 1911 had appeared in two books as being in Marshall Street. I came across a different location on another site but that address was also incorrect (Cnr Jules and 17th street). After a little investigation, I eventually found it further up Jules street. It was where the tram line ended on that route.

Tram Terminus Building in Jules Street

Tram Terminus Building in Jules Street (Source: Google Earth)

Bibliography

Stark, F, 1956. Seventy Golden Years. Johannesburg: City Council of Johannesburg & Johannesburg Publicity Association

Norwich, O. I, 1986. A Johannesburg album-Historical postcards. Johannesburg: AD. Donker

The Star. 1970. ‘Jeppe was the Rosebank of today’ by Denis Godfrey

Bawcombe, P, 1973. Johannesburg. Johannesburg: Village Publishing

https://www.research.ed.ac.uk/portal/files/8216907/The_Temperance_movement_and_wine_farmers_at_the_Cape.pdf

Updates:

Added Marshall Street views, Thrupps and theatres/bioscopes May 2019

 

This entry was published on August 17, 2013 at 7:01 pm. It’s filed under Johannesburg and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

8 thoughts on “Jeppestown & Belgravia Pt.5 (Osborn Pharmacy, Thrupps, Cosmopolitan Hotel, Jeppestown Synagogue and Jooste & Bryant’s building)

  1. Desire Cloete on said:

    love all the old 19th century building s so historic magnificent to think they have stood the test of time

  2. Thank you for your amazing insights. Where could I get contact details, our company is looking to possibly rent/ repair the Cosmopolitan Hotel?

    • Marc Latilla on said:

      Hi,
      Try Propertuity 0861 333 444. If they don’t own or manage the Cosmopolitan, I’m sure they can point you in the right direction

  3. Glynne Case on said:

    So wonderful that the Cosmopolitan has been given a new lease of life in such a wonderful and totally appropriate way. I plan to go there soon. The Saturday Star of today (13 August 2016) has an article on the chaps who have been involved in the revival of it.

    • Marc Latilla on said:

      It’s great news! I read the article today. It was only a matter of time before it would eventually become part of Maboneng

  4. Pingback: Benekaant – Cosmopolitan | Photography By Tshepo Mogopodi  – SEBASTISM – online

  5. faith on said:

    ive lived in this areas for as far as i know and great improvement has happend over the years

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